Friday, July 20, 2007

My First Bribe, I'm Practically a Citizen

I am in Hyderabad and what a city of contradictions it is. My bus arrived here 3 hours earlier then scheduled landing me here at 5am. A horrible time to arrive anywhere new-especially after a sleepless night on a pitching bumpy bus ride. As soon as i got off of the bus i was surrounded by blood thirsty rickshaw wallahs. One man grabbed onto my arm and started pulling me towards his rickshaw and a fight almost broke out. I paid about 3x what was fair just to get out of there and into my hotel. At the hotel I was told that they didn't have a single room available but I could pay for the deluxe...this after making a reservation with deposit online. I told the man that if that was the case then I would just sleep on their front stoop until it was light enough to find a different hotel. Miraculously a room became available. Not the best introduction to Hyderabad!
Fortunately things have gone up from there. Many people speak Hindi here and I really have enjoyed trying to use what little I know. It's great for bargaining and telling people to get lost- very effective and laughter inducing. I am getting better at the bartering-complete with throwing up my hands- "Bahout Zayda he! Mera Ooloo neheen! Kam kijiye!" -loosely translated to mean- " That's too much! I'm not an owl. Lower the price!" (If someone is an owl they are a fool)
Yesterday I went out to see the sites, Hyderabad has one of the largest mosque in the world, Mecca Masjid and right next door is the Charminar a four towered structure with amazing views over the city. Because of the large Muslim populations here many women wear the full black robes and veil over their saris-leaving only their eyes visable. I find this to be disconcerting-not least because of the heat. It's strange to not be able to see someones facial expression while they are talking.
I also went to the zoo park-Indias 1st open enclosure zoo. I was skeptical but had heard good things and i was craving a bit of green scenery. It wasn't that bad-not amazing but I think a good effort. I had heard there were four 8month old bengal tigers and offered the zoo keeper a bit of baksheesh to let me in the back to see them. Who have I become? Bribing indian zoo keepers! I have never been that close to such scary animals , tigers,jaguars and leopards literally inches from me roaring and hissing. It was thrilling and terrifying, I quickly questioned my judgement and the security of the cages. I am shuddering now just thinking about it.
Today I went to find a travel agent to book my ticket to Delhi. I got lost, as usual and ended up wandering around-my favorite activity here. Up and down side streets, dirty, crowded and often smelling of sewage. I turned the corner and in front of me was a lare modern mall-complete with McDonalds (thankfully the first that I have seen here so far, it's nice to know that they haven't taken over yet). I just can't understand the dichotomy of a plush modern mall surrounded by poverty and broken power lines.
Tomorrow I am flying to Delhi and will be meeting with Joshua! It seems so unreal, I've been on my own for what seems like forever i'm so excited to share this experience with him.

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